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Thread: VALVULATOR GP3 Gain Modification

  1. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 13_56


    Does anyone know where this mod came from? Did Steve Fryette create it? The letter head on the document is clearly VHT and the way it is written seems like Steve wrote it...anyone know for sure? I would personaly feel better having it done if he created it...
    Any one?





    Also...in the mod doc it does not say to remove the bottom panel...If that is so...How do you get to the items that need to be removed and replaced? If there is an easier way could some one let me know.

    If it has to be done...do you have to remove all of those screws on the board or can the bottom plate just be removed with the small screws?

    Thanks for any help!!!

    13_56

  2. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 13_56
    Any one?





    Also...in the mod doc it does not say to remove the bottom panel...If that is so...How do you get to the items that need to be removed and replaced? If there is an easier way could some one let me know.

    If it has to be done...do you have to remove all of those screws on the board or can the bottom plate just be removed with the small screws?

    Thanks for any help!!!

    13_56

    The document was written by Steve Fryette....But it is a "Try at your own risk", and he seriously doesn't have the time to answer the questions.
    I've already done this mod to 2 of my GP3's and my friends with great results.

    The mod is very easy and should take no more than a half hour including disassembly and reassembly if you are handy with a soldering iron.
    Simply take the top and side screws out to remove the top lid.
    Then remove all the top row knobs with a 1/16 allen key, then remove the nuts on the pots. The whole tone section board will be able to be removed and flipped backwards...
    Just remove the tubes so you have room.
    Everything is clearly labled on the instructions....
    The second resistor on the list is in a tight space...But all components can be easily soldered/desoldered fron the top. You need a good fine tip soldering iron like a weller, and a good solder sucker, which can be bought at any radio shack etc....
    If you need any help on exact instructions, let me know, and I can walk you through them either here or on the phone....
    Just remember that if you are not secure about your abilities, let someone who knows what they are doing perform the mod.
    It's simple, but you can easily screw it up if you have no experience....
    Steve
    NO!!!!!
    I am not Steve Fryette....
    He just builds the most kick ass amps of all time....

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveVHT


    it is a "Try at your own risk



    all components can be easily soldered/desoldered from the top.





    Hey Steve...thanks for the reply!!!

    "Try at your own risk" referring to the technique of installation...not the tone outcome...correct?

    Yeah...I agree it is an easy mod to do. I'm confident I can do it after reading the doc and opening up the unit. I have the iron and sucker etc and I've done a few mods on several of my ADA MP-1's with excellent results (Ha Ha...the old practice units for the big gun!!!).

    ...However...I've only removed components with access to both sides of a board. This is where I'm going to need some help.

    Thanks alot for your help!!!

    13_56

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    Quote Originally Posted by 13_56
    Hey Steve...thanks for the reply!!!

    "Try at your own risk" referring to the technique of installation...not the tone outcome...correct?

    Yeah...I agree it is an easy mod to do. I'm confident I can do it after reading the doc and opening up the unit. I have the iron and sucker etc and I've done a few mods on several of my ADA MP-1's with excellent results (Ha Ha...the old practice units for the big gun!!!).

    ...However...I've only removed components with access to both sides of a board. This is where I'm going to need some help.

    Thanks alot for your help!!!

    13_56

    Yes....You will void your warranty and VHT will not be responsible for any problems if you do the mod.
    But it's simply running 2 resistors in parallel, which requires no desoldering, changing 2 others and a cap. Very simple stuff....
    If you have a good pair of fine needle nose pliars, you can simply heat the old solder up and pull out the original res/cap.... Then slighly re-heat the lug and suck out the solder.
    The original cap and new cap are pretty sensative to heat, so you may destroy the old one when pulling it out, but it's a $ .05 part.....LOL
    If you need any help, just drop me a line...
    Steve
    NO!!!!!
    I am not Steve Fryette....
    He just builds the most kick ass amps of all time....

  5. #15

    Default modding with ease

    Yeah, it is pretty easy....VHT doesn't use globs of solder, so stuff comes out pretty cleanly. The directions say to use a solder sucker and not solder wick, but not having the syringe thing and having a bunch of really skinny copper wick, I did it with wick...I removed all the old parts, cleaned up the tiny bit of solder remaining, and dropped in the 28k resistors and the other parts...I agree with Steve in buying a few extra caps...the first one was a pain, but the second try was OK!

    Off to try the mods with my brand new 2/50/2 that just arrived!

    Any comments on the clean channel from those who did the mod?

    drew

  6. Default

    Awesome...thanks a bunch for your help guys!!!!!!!

    I'm sure it will go fine with your tips...

    13_56

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    Steve,
    I'm excited to hear some sound clips, please post when you got em
    mb
    Sangre

    VHT 100 CLX
    VHT 50 CL (SOLD)
    VHT 2-50-2
    VHT 2X12 fat bottom cabs (2)
    VHT 4X12 slant cab
    VHT valvulator


    www.myspace.com/distancefromshelter
    www.myspace.com/187calm
    www.myspace.com/macheterevival

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    where do I find the instructions?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate
    where do I find the instructions?
    The first post...
    Here's the link....
    Hard to see because it's all white lettering....
    http://www.vhtusers.com/documents/GP3Mod
    NO!!!!!
    I am not Steve Fryette....
    He just builds the most kick ass amps of all time....

  10. #20

    Default Modification of Mods...

    Here's what I ended up liking the best:

    Left the original resistors in R1 and R11...clean sounded better to me that way.
    Put in the 200k in the rhythm channel, and 200k in the lead channel, along with the new 1000pf cap in the lead channel. Still have mod gain yellow channel, and monstous lead channel...lead w/high gain, no edge, no fat, no boost, +EQ (need it for my little 1-12" cabs) sounds very VHT-like, or even dare I say Recto-ish with treble up and bass down a bit!

    Hope this compromise is "stable" for the amp; sounds great, less noisy.

    I might try other values for resistors, like a 300k in rhythm or a 150-ish k in the lead channel...also might try other caps between 680-1000pf values.

    Good w/EL34's in A/B mode...great in class-A.

    How soon will my 2/50/2 blow up if I use class A all the time?

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