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Thread: Sig:X Settings

  1. #11
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    Clean boost is not meant to be another overdrive like on the Lead and Rhythm channels. There really is no practial need in a live or recording situation to set up the clean channel as a distortion channel when you already have 2 distortion channels with switchable boosts (that coincidentally can easily do exactly the low-medium gain pushed sound are are trying to get from the clean channel).

    The idea is to make the clean channel hit the power amp harder for old school clean solos and low gain fat rhythm sounds that normally you would do with a NMV amp and control with your guitar volume. That's why it comes on strong - you use the guitar volume to set where it hits the power amp and how hard. Obviously that doesn't work in a bedroom environment, but it wasn't intended to.

    Set the L/R channel volumes to match the boosted clean volume, not the other way round. The only way to do what you describe would be to put a master on the clean. That totally defeats the purpose of having a lower gain, higher headroom NMV style channel pushing the power amp.

    Dave Phelge
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    "We are what we pretend to be, so we must be careful what we pretend to be". - Kurt Vonnegut

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by support View Post
    Clean boost is not meant to be another overdrive like on the Lead and Rhythm channels. There really is no practial need in a live or recording situation to set up the clean channel as a distortion channel when you already have 2 distortion channels with switchable boosts (that coincidentally can easily do exactly the low-medium gain pushed sound are are trying to get from the clean channel).

    The idea is to make the clean channel hit the power amp harder for old school clean solos and low gain fat rhythm sounds that normally you would do with a NMV amp and control with your guitar volume. That's why it comes on strong - you use the guitar volume to set where it hits the power amp and how hard. Obviously that doesn't work in a bedroom environment, but it wasn't intended to.

    Set the L/R channel volumes to match the boosted clean volume, not the other way round. The only way to do what you describe would be to put a master on the clean. That totally defeats the purpose of having a lower gain, higher headroom NMV style channel pushing the power amp.

    Hmm... I'll have to try this, but I think I'll still prefer to skip the boost on the clean channel. But I'm definitely gonna do some experimenting because I would like to use as much of the amp as I can. I actually don't use the wattage option at all.
    ESP/Ltd || VHT || EMG || MXR into Randall Lynch Box and Ampeg V412 cabs w/ Eminence Speakers

  3. #13
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    Just to echo the feedback - personally, I never use the boost on the clean channel either. I tend to prefer to set the volume and leave it. But I'm not playing that sort of old school clean solo type stuff.

    I also never use the wattage switches - I honestly do not hear much appreciable difference between 40w mode and 100w mode, even at a decent volume. I was kind of expecting something like the Orange Dual Terror, where the differences between the wattages are drastically obvious. It's a bit too subtle on the Siggy, and doesn't provide the "cranked amp at a bedroom volume" experience that other amps do provide.

    But I'm not complaining. I didn't buy the amp for that anyway, just would've been a nice bonus. I still run the amp at home - neighbours are quite understanding!!

    My typical settings are:

    Clean channel - Brite, 100watt, boost off, fat on.
    Volume at just past 9.
    Treble between 11 and 12.
    Mids around 10.
    Bass around 11 and 12.
    Presence and depth both around 12.

    Rhythm channel - Burn, 100watt, boost on, less on, wood on.
    Gain I at 11.
    Gain II at 1.
    Master at 11.
    Treble around 12.
    Middle around 2.
    Bass around 11.

    Lead Channel - Blow, 100watt, boost on, more on, wood on.
    Gain I at 2.
    Gain II at 2 or 3.
    Master at 10 or 11.
    Treble at 11 or 12.
    Middle at 2.
    Bass at 11.

    Presence and Depth for these channels are at noon.

    The rest of it comes from my pick attack and my volume of the guitar.

  4. #14
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    Thanks for posting your settings.

    Quote Originally Posted by drewfx View Post
    I honestly do not hear much appreciable difference between 40w mode and 100w mode, even at a decent volume. I was kind of expecting something like the Orange Dual Terror, where the differences between the wattages are drastically obvious.
    This is to be expected. In true power reduction, the only thing that changes is power output. In order for you to hear that difference, you have to be using the available power. In other words, you have to use 100W to hear the sound of 100W. Then when you switch to 40W you definitely hear the difference. If you are only using 30W, you won't hear the 40W mode maxing out at 40W. So at 30W, the sound will be similar at the 40 or 100W setting.

    In fake power reduction, which is what many companies do, what is changing is power tube gain (because 2 tubes are removed), or low driver stage headroom (what is really happening in any amp that has a variable power knob).

    - Removing tubes reduces power amp gain and mismatches output transformer impedance. Result: lower volume and more distortion - not power amp saturation (true low power amp behavior).

    - Cutting phase inverter voltage causes the driver stage to clip prematurely. Result: lower volume and more distortion - not power amp saturation (true low power amp behavior).

    In both examples, the sound is more distorted and mushy, but it isn't pushing power tubes or maxing out the output transformer, which is why the true "pushed" feel goes away. It is also tonally different than the amps full power setting.

    We prefer true power reduction and feel our low power mode sounds the way a lower power amp behaves. The downside is that you have to be able to use the power. This goes against the much easier to sell marketing objective of companies pushing fake power reduction: "Tell the customer that the increased distortion at lower volume is power reduction and they'll believe it".
    Dave Phelge
    Chief Misconception Eradicator
    support@fryette.com

    "We are what we pretend to be, so we must be careful what we pretend to be". - Kurt Vonnegut

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by support View Post
    Thanks for posting your settings.



    This is to be expected. In true power reduction, the only thing that changes is power output. In order for you to hear that difference, you have to be using the available power. In other words, you have to use 100W to hear the sound of 100W. Then when you switch to 40W you definitely hear the difference. If you are only using 30W, you won't hear the 40W mode maxing out at 40W. So at 30W, the sound will be similar at the 40 or 100W setting.

    In fake power reduction, which is what many companies do, what is changing is power tube gain (because 2 tubes are removed), or low driver stage headroom (what is really happening in any amp that has a variable power knob).

    - Removing tubes reduces power amp gain and mismatches output transformer impedance. Result: lower volume and more distortion - not power amp saturation (true low power amp behavior).

    - Cutting phase inverter voltage causes the driver stage to clip prematurely. Result: lower volume and more distortion - not power amp saturation (true low power amp behavior).

    In both examples, the sound is more distorted and mushy, but it isn't pushing power tubes or maxing out the output transformer, which is why the true "pushed" feel goes away. It is also tonally different than the amps full power setting.

    We prefer true power reduction and feel our low power mode sounds the way a lower power amp behaves. The downside is that you have to be able to use the power. This goes against the much easier to sell marketing objective of companies pushing fake power reduction: "Tell the customer that the increased distortion at lower volume is power reduction and they'll believe it".
    Interesting read. I don't use it but not for the same reason as drewfx. I just don't use it because I really don't care about lower wattages or mellower sounds but it's nice that it's there if I need it. Like if I join a blues jam band or something.

    Anyways, here are my settings...

    Clean
    Either voicing switch option but it's on brite atm, open, 100w, boost off.
    Volu - 09:00-10:30
    Treb - 11:00
    Mids - 10:00
    Bass - 01:30
    Pres - 10:00-10:30
    Dpth - 09:00


    Rhythm
    Gain I - 01:30 - 02:00
    Gain II - 09:30
    Live, boost on or off, more, 100w, scoop
    Volu - 09:00 - 10:30 if possible, about 08:30 if not.
    Treb - 11:00
    Mids - 01:00
    Bass - 02:00
    Dpth - 01:30

    Lead
    Gain I - 01:00 - 01:30
    Gain II - 10:00
    Brit, boost on or off, more, 100w, scoop
    Volu - About the same as the Rhythm channel
    Treb - 12:30
    Mids - 01:30
    Bass - 01:00 - 01:30
    Pres - 01:30

    Dunlop DB-01 Crybaby from Hell - To color or accentuate whatever.

    MXR Wylde Overdrive - to boost gain channels like you typically would with a TS-9
    Volu - 05:00
    Tone - 12:00
    Gain - 07:00

    MXR Black Label Chorus - Usually I use this on cleans or to occasionally color a lead or harmonic
    Low - 01:30
    High - 12:30
    Volu - 12:00
    Rate - 01:30
    Dpth - 12:00

    MXR Noise Clamp - Threshhold's at about 01:30 or 02:00

    I have the clean set up this way, using either bloom, brite or spank, with the pres/depth controls set low because to me, it sounds more like a combo and less like a head. Also, the low depth setting allows the treble to sparkle more. This is good because the Super V is kind of a dark speaker, however I have another Eminence in the top 412, which I think is better than having a speaker with all the traits I like in one. Though what'd be even better is if either P50E's were also in 8ohm or if Fryette didn't use their name because when I was looking at a cab and head to pair together, I bought a Randall Lynch Box 412 instead because, "huh... most companies that have their name on a speaker generally aren't using very good speakers; sorta strange they'd do that and charge 1100. o.O" And yeah yeah, I know "tone, we can't do it in 8ohms because of tone", but every other speaker design is generally in more than one ohm, so why limit the p50e to 16ohms only with absolutely no option at all?

    The rhythm I have set up sorta like an 80s modded Marshall, but probably with a crap ton more gain with all the cascading between the EMG 81, Wylde overdrive, and then into the amp [with 4 gain stages and a boost of it's own]. And the lead's set up to sound somewhere between a Mesa Mark series amp and a Marshall. I like that it has a little bit of compression on the lead channel, but not too much and still keeps things very responsive.

    One thing I wonder though, is why the channels have names at all? And what kept Steve from going absolutely bonkers? Clean can go further than "clean" and the gain channels can not only be used for both rhythm and lead duties, but also pushed clean/low gain/crunch/hi gain. Personally, I'm not sure what I'd have called them.





    /longpost
    ESP/Ltd || VHT || EMG || MXR into Randall Lynch Box and Ampeg V412 cabs w/ Eminence Speakers

  6. #16
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    Well, here's for attempt #2 to show my settings

    Clean
    Brite, 100w, boost off, open
    Volu - 09:00 at least
    Treb - 10:30 - 01:30 depending on mood, voicing switch and part
    Mids - 09:00 - 10:30
    Bass - 01:30
    Pres - 10:30
    Dpth - 09:00

    Rhythm
    Gain I - ~02:00
    Gain II - 10:30
    Live, Boost on or off, 100w, more, scoop
    Volu - 08:30 - 10:30, hopefully closer to 09-09:30
    Treb - 10:30 - 12:00 While most of these are based on how loud can I manage or mood/part, I think this is mostly based on what my ears are hearing that day
    Mids - 01:30
    Bass - 01:30
    Dpth - 01:30

    Lead
    Gain I - ~01:30ish, but I think I'm gonna mess around with it some more. Maybe go lower on this channel and higher on the rhythm or vice versa.
    Gain II - 10:30
    Brit, Boost on or off, 100w, more, scoop
    Volu - Same as rhythm
    Treb - 12:00 - 01:30 [same reason as the Rhythm channel]
    Mids - 01:30
    Bass - 01:30
    Pres - 01:30

    Generally, I switch around on the cleans voicing switch. I use 18v EMG 81s in both positions in both guitars, an MXR chorus, wylde overdrive, noise clamp and Dunlop Crybaby from Hell wah to color my signal.
    ESP/Ltd || VHT || EMG || MXR into Randall Lynch Box and Ampeg V412 cabs w/ Eminence Speakers

  7. #17
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    Yeah, I keep trying to submit my settings but the forum won't let me!! >.<

    Here you go...Dave

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    Last edited by support; 08-07-2011 at 12:06 AM.
    ESP/Ltd || VHT || EMG || MXR into Randall Lynch Box and Ampeg V412 cabs w/ Eminence Speakers

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by support View Post
    Thanks for posting your settings.



    This is to be expected. In true power reduction, the only thing that changes is power output. In order for you to hear that difference, you have to be using the available power. In other words, you have to use 100W to hear the sound of 100W. Then when you switch to 40W you definitely hear the difference. If you are only using 30W, you won't hear the 40W mode maxing out at 40W. So at 30W, the sound will be similar at the 40 or 100W setting.

    In fake power reduction, which is what many companies do, what is changing is power tube gain (because 2 tubes are removed), or low driver stage headroom (what is really happening in any amp that has a variable power knob).

    - Removing tubes reduces power amp gain and mismatches output transformer impedance. Result: lower volume and more distortion - not power amp saturation (true low power amp behavior).

    - Cutting phase inverter voltage causes the driver stage to clip prematurely. Result: lower volume and more distortion - not power amp saturation (true low power amp behavior).

    In both examples, the sound is more distorted and mushy, but it isn't pushing power tubes or maxing out the output transformer, which is why the true "pushed" feel goes away. It is also tonally different than the amps full power setting.

    We prefer true power reduction and feel our low power mode sounds the way a lower power amp behaves. The downside is that you have to be able to use the power. This goes against the much easier to sell marketing objective of companies pushing fake power reduction: "Tell the customer that the increased distortion at lower volume is power reduction and they'll believe it".
    Thanks for the clarification!

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewfx View Post
    Thanks for the clarification!
    I went against their suggestion to match the boost to distortion channels. I matched the regular clean to the distortion channels and kick on the boost with my OD, Chorus and wah should I want to do a more classic rock solo. Plus I can roll the vol down on the guitar like they said and have quite a bit of versatility on the clean channel. Basically I'm using the Clean channel like an old early 70s Marshall head. I could probably play blues and classic rock gigs just on this channel alone with the fx and amp boost.
    ESP/Ltd || VHT || EMG || MXR into Randall Lynch Box and Ampeg V412 cabs w/ Eminence Speakers

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by LTD Deluxe H-1001 View Post
    I went against their suggestion to match the boost to distortion channels. I matched the regular clean to the distortion channels and kick on the boost with my OD, Chorus and wah should I want to do a more classic rock solo. Plus I can roll the vol down on the guitar like they said and have quite a bit of versatility on the clean channel. Basically I'm using the Clean channel like an old early 70s Marshall head. I could probably play blues and classic rock gigs just on this channel alone with the fx and amp boost.
    I do love the versatility of the Sig X. It's probably the BEST amp I've played for sheer versatility, and at the same time, the tones are unique sounding and aren't jack of all trades tones at all.

    One thing I do wish is that the less/more switches were switchable from the foot controller. If it were, you'd have literally tons more tones at your disposal.

    I mostly use my rhythm channel as more of a mid-gain crunch, atmospherics type tone. For reference, My favourite and most inspiring tones come from bands such as Deftones, Tool, ISIS, Godspeed You! Black Emperor, QOTSA, and post-rock and hard-rock in general. I'm not really one of those "throw a tubescreamer in front of a dual recto" kind of guys. I know it's supposed to clean up the low-end, but that's precisely what I want from a guitar tone!!

    I've just recently prepped my pedalboard, and I've ordered a Digitech Whammy DT for some future experimentation. But one thing I tend to do is sometimes I kick in the FX loop for a boost when playing lead lines. Eventually I'll get round to throwing a boost pedal in the loop along with a reverb, for some slightly different tones.

    I also don't really use distortion pedals. I have a Boss SD-2 which is quite nice, but I really only set it for a low-gain 'on the edge' tone, into the clean channel. But maybe I should just use the boost on the clean channel... another thing to try!

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