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Hollowway
05-03-2011, 02:45 AM
Hi all. I've been a lurker here for a while. I picked up a used 50CL and FB slant cab a bit ago. I've since seen numerous posts online regarding settings, but they're all sort of generic, like "the EQ is very sensitive so only use small movements."
Anyway, I'd LOVE it if any of you could post your specific settings for the 50CL or 100CL. I'm particularly interested in chuggy metal sounds, because that's what I'm having trouble dialing in.

GD91945
06-07-2011, 05:55 AM
I posted a long, detailed response to this and lost it when my laptop battery died. So you'll have to make do with a truncated version that isn't as good.

I go for a high-ish gain sound, though not really "chuggy" as such. I'm using a 100CL EQ into a Framus cab with Celestion V30s and my chain is:

ESP Horizon > Boss NS-2 > MXR 10 band EQ > Amp's "high" input

The ESP has passive, DiMarzio AirZone humbuckers, and the MXR is just set to a clean boost.

I use the green channel for gain as it has, to my ears, a crunchier, rawer and more characteristically Fryette sound. More or less the same settings applied to the red channel sound similar but arguably smoother, maybe a little darker.

Gain: 3 o'clock (toggle set to "high gain")
Treble: 3 o'clock
Mid: 11 or 12 o'clock
Bass: 1 o'clock

The graphic EQ is flat except for a small (2 db-ish) hump from 1.2 kHz, and -6db at 630 Hz. I'll sometimes dip at 250 Hz as well.

I tend to run it at half-power (50w) in class A/B, with the master volume high-ish and the channel low-ish.

The trick, such as it is, and in my dunderheaded opinion, is that there's a balancing act to be done – especially if you have the graphic EQ built in – in that there are a lot of variables. Channel EQ, the "shift" buttons, depth and presence, graphic EQ if you have it… some overlap, some seem to have distinct effects. I really recommend devoting lots of tweak time to it, and crucially, keeping detailed notes.

The other things I'd say are that it likes a clean boost, it likes good cable, and if you don't have an EQ model, a quality EQ in the loop is a great idea.

Sevenstringer
06-08-2011, 10:05 AM
Gain: 3 o'clock (toggle set to "high gain")
Treble: 3 o'clock
Mid: 11 or 12 o'clock
Bass: 1 o'clock

The graphic EQ is flat except for a small (2 db-ish) hump from 1.2 kHz, and -6db at 630 Hz. I'll sometimes dip at 250 Hz as well.

I tend to run it at half-power (50w) in class A/B, with the master volume high-ish and the channel low-ish.



Sounds good to me ! ! !

Hollowway
06-10-2011, 03:44 AM
I posted a long, detailed response to this and lost it when my laptop battery died. So you'll have to make do with a truncated version that isn't as good.

I go for a high-ish gain sound, though not really "chuggy" as such. I'm using a 100CL EQ into a Framus cab with Celestion V30s and my chain is:

ESP Horizon > Boss NS-2 > MXR 10 band EQ > Amp's "high" input

The ESP has passive, DiMarzio AirZone humbuckers, and the MXR is just set to a clean boost.

I use the green channel for gain as it has, to my ears, a crunchier, rawer and more characteristically Fryette sound. More or less the same settings applied to the red channel sound similar but arguably smoother, maybe a little darker.

Gain: 3 o'clock (toggle set to "high gain")
Treble: 3 o'clock
Mid: 11 or 12 o'clock
Bass: 1 o'clock

The graphic EQ is flat except for a small (2 db-ish) hump from 1.2 kHz, and -6db at 630 Hz. I'll sometimes dip at 250 Hz as well.

I tend to run it at half-power (50w) in class A/B, with the master volume high-ish and the channel low-ish.

The trick, such as it is, and in my dunderheaded opinion, is that there's a balancing act to be done – especially if you have the graphic EQ built in – in that there are a lot of variables. Channel EQ, the "shift" buttons, depth and presence, graphic EQ if you have it… some overlap, some seem to have distinct effects. I really recommend devoting lots of tweak time to it, and crucially, keeping detailed notes.

The other things I'd say are that it likes a clean boost, it likes good cable, and if you don't have an EQ model, a quality EQ in the loop is a great idea.

Thanks, man! It is definitely tricky with all of the different variables. Not Mark IV tricky, because all of the sounds are good, but still tricky.
The biggest issue I have is getting a good palm mute sound. It sounds pretty thin. I've got it goig through my FB 4x12, and it's nowhere near as thick sounding as my DAR Tuzzia through my 1x12. I currently am jacking up the mids almost all the way and giving some extra bass on the graphic EQ. I tried turning up the depth some, but then it just gets boomy, not thick. So is that generally the Fryette sound? Or am I doing something wrong that I can't get that thick palm mute sound?

Josh_p
06-10-2011, 06:58 AM
Are you playing with considerable volume man? My 50CL will eat Engl's and shit Peavey's no problem. Make sure you're dialing in your tone at stage volume for sure. Also, when were the tubes last replaced and what tubes are in it now?

thanks,

~J

support
06-10-2011, 04:02 PM
Depends on a lot of things. The Tuzzia is a 65W amp. More power = more headroom and tighter response which is usually better for palm muting, but can be less musical sounding too. The 50/CL is not my idea of a tight focused metal palm-mute type of amp. It's more of a flat-out rock machine.

What I would recommend:
1)Turn the Master full up and keep channel volumes low.
2) Only use EQ to fine-tune existing tone settings. We often see people jacking the mid knob and then make the EQ a V shape. That 2 opposite settings fighting each other. Set the tone controls for the tone you like and use the EQ to add or subtract no more than 1 or 2 notches on any band.
3) Don't over-do the gain. Excessive gain settings make the amp muddy and loose sounding. Setting the gain on 2 o'clock is plenty for a good palm-mute feel.
4) Don't expect a lower powered amp to compete with a higher powered one. Power is not just about volume. It has a big impact on tone and feel.
4) Set the amp to Class AB and Enhance Mode. That's the most clean power and headroom.

And as Josh said, make sure the power tubes are correct, fresh and properly biased.

Hollowway
06-11-2011, 03:55 AM
Are you playing with considerable volume man? My 50CL will eat Engl's and shit Peavey's no problem. Make sure you're dialing in your tone at stage volume for sure. Also, when were the tubes last replaced and what tubes are in it now?

thanks,

~J

Well, I got it used so I don't have a lot of history on the tubes, but I do know they are the stock ones (ie the recommended standard Fryette tubes). I may have to replace them, but I've wanted to avoid doing that in the short term.

@Dave - I run my master at about 2 and use the channel volume. Would you recommend turning the master all the way up?
Also, I have depth and pres at 12:00, gain at 1:00, treb 11:00, mid 4:00, bass 11-1:00ish, and I'm bumping up the lowest two sliders a bit. And AB/enhanced as well.
I know it's a rock amp, but it is super tight and I'm just expecting the modded JCM 800 chugs with a palm mute. I may well have to check out the tubes or another 50CL as a comparison.

support
06-11-2011, 03:09 PM
@Dave - I run my master at about 2 and use the channel volume. Would you recommend turning the master all the way up?

Yes.



Also, I have depth and pres at 12:00, gain at 1:00, treb 11:00, mid 4:00, bass 11-1:00ish, and I'm bumping up the lowest two sliders a bit. And AB/enhanced as well.


Back the mids off. That's a lot.



I'm just expecting the modded JCM 800 chugs with a palm mute. I may well have to check out the tubes or another 50CL as a comparison.

Well, it's not a JCM800, so don't ecpect it to sound like one. It has much more bottom and is smoother on top. BTW, are you comparing to a JCM 800 50W or 100W? Modded how?

powerslave70
06-11-2011, 08:19 PM
I have a 100CL & LOVE it.

Since most of my playing is done at low volumes at home take this for what its worth.

Green channel. settings in o'clock
Bass 11
Shift out
Mids 2
Edge in
Boost in
Treble 1:30
High gain switch up
Channel volume 3
Gain 1

To really get good palm muted chunk, a good O/D pedal like an OCD hits it outa the park:twisted:

Graphic eq is set fairly flat with only the tiniest adjustment on the sliders.
As Dave said its to fine tune an existing tone.

Oh & I run it in 50W mode thru Del 2x12 cab

Master volume to suit:)

Hollowway
06-12-2011, 12:54 AM
Ok, fellas, I really appreciate all of the input! I played around with the settings quite a bit today, and I found that to get the thickest palm mute sounds I would turn the gain all the way up, turn up the bass, and disengage the boost button. So it looks like it's
Mostly an issue of compression and looseness that I'm attributing to that thick sound. But I lose the clarity and articulation, so I dialed it back to the settings you guys are recommending.

@Dave - thanks, I'll try the master up. And I mention the JCM 800 because I always here people saying it sounds like an articulate Marshall on steroids.

@powerslave70, I'll try an overdrive pedal so I can get a thick chunky sound if I need it.

The first time I played a 50CL it sounded great, and I didn't make a note of the settings in the store, so right now I'm just trying to reproduce that sound. I think ice juuuust about got it. And fwiw it's so articulate it's ruining me for my other amps!

GD91945
06-14-2011, 08:24 AM
If you can, try a clean boost in front before you go for an OD. You might be amazed (I was) at how much difference a little 3db shove on the front end makes it growl, and to my ears, this has the advantage of retaining more clarity than you might get with an OD pedal.

Also, you might find this settings chart (http://www.fryette-users.com/forums/showthread.php?3220-100CL-Amp-Settings-Chart&p=20032&highlight=#post20032) I made handy if you're struggling to keep track of your tonal refinements. Yeah, I know, it's really nerdy, but it stopped me going around in circles. I keep a stack of them on top of my amp and, every so often, I'll revise my settings a little, chasing perfection!

As a final note, I do think a lot of the problem you're having seems to be down to it being not quite the right amp. I'd never really thought of it since I so rarely play "proper" metal anymore, but the CL is probably not quite enough, or the right sort, of gain for that. Although, as the support chap says, the 100w version does add a lot more thump… it's a bit too much for me to use at home, but when I do use it, the difference is enough that I need to make some fairly big changes to the EQ.

Hollowway
06-17-2011, 12:29 AM
If you can, try a clean boost in front before you go for an OD. You might be amazed (I was) at how much difference a little 3db shove on the front end makes it growl, and to my ears, this has the advantage of retaining more clarity than you might get with an OD pedal.

Also, you might find this settings chart (http://www.fryette-users.com/forums/showthread.php?3220-100CL-Amp-Settings-Chart&p=20032&highlight=#post20032) I made handy if you're struggling to keep track of your tonal refinements. Yeah, I know, it's really nerdy, but it stopped me going around in circles. I keep a stack of them on top of my amp and, every so often, I'll revise my settings a little, chasing perfection!

As a final note, I do think a lot of the problem you're having seems to be down to it being not quite the right amp. I'd never really thought of it since I so rarely play "proper" metal anymore, but the CL is probably not quite enough, or the right sort, of gain for that. Although, as the support chap says, the 100w version does add a lot more thump… it's a bit too much for me to use at home, but when I do use it, the difference is enough that I need to make some fairly big changes to the EQ.

Cool, I'll try a clean boost first, then. And thanks for the link to that chart you made. That's pretty cool!
Also, I get what you mean about it not being quite the right amp, but I also know that ULs are regarded as very metal-capable. I didn't think there would be that much of a difference between the two sounds, apart from the power tubes. I do like the EL34s better. And I've never heard a UL in person. If there is that much of a difference I could get the KT77s for the 50CL and move more in that direction. And also I purposely didnt get the 100CL because I assumed that it would only give me more clean headroom. But you guys think it will also give me more oomph?

powerslave70
06-17-2011, 01:25 AM
Yeah, when I said an O/D pedal I shoulda mentioned that I run them as a signal boost ie: drive off, level maxed.
Of course if you feel the need for a little more hair, bump up the pedals drive knob SLIGHTLY until you get the desired effect.

Theres a ton of quality clean boosters on the market today. Xotic AC, Suhr Koko Boost etc. Hands down the best ultra clean boost i've found is the Creation Audio Labs MK 4.25. No tonal coloration whatsoever, just MORE of your amps tone8-)

GD91945
06-17-2011, 04:50 AM
I get what you mean about it not being quite the right amp, but I also know that ULs are regarded as very metal-capable. I didn't think there would be that much of a difference between the two sounds, apart from the power tubes. I do like the EL34s better. And I've never heard a UL in person. If there is that much of a difference I could get the KT77s for the 50CL and move more in that direction.

I must confess, I didn't know you could change the power tube type in the 50CL, so I can't comment there, except to say that as far as I know, there's a bit more to the sonic differences between UL and CL than just the power tubes. ULs do sound much more aggressive than a CL, from what I've heard, but there has to be more behind that than the substitution of KT88s for EL34s.

Please don't feel like you need to sell it and start over, though. I actually wanted a UL but couldn't quite stretch my budget that far, so I settled on a 100CL. The settings I've described, especially the clean boost and the subtle EQ curve, are my attempt at getting a CL to sound more like a UL. It gets me close enough that I'm happy.


And also I purposely didnt get the 100CL because I assumed that it would only give me more clean headroom. But you guys think it will also give me more oomph?

Yes, it does seem to have a bit more oomph at 100w, but it's not like a night and day difference. The basic tonal properties stay the more or less the same, it just sounds a bit bigger, so it's unlikely to fundamentally alter your situation.

See what you think when you've tried a clean boost (or OD) and spent some time twiddling knobs… you may be closer than you think.

HellfireSG
06-17-2011, 11:34 AM
UL and CL are very different amps....i owned at CL for awhile, i really want one back.... but the UL is something very special.... i love that damn head...

Hollowway
06-18-2011, 05:23 AM
UL and CL are very different amps....i owned at CL for awhile, i really want one back.... but the UL is something very special.... i love that damn head...

Well looking at your sig you are definitely knowledgeable about Fryettes! So what would sum up the differences between the UL and CL (and you could throw in the Siggy for reference, too)? I was under the impression that the only difference between a UL and CL was the additional channel and the power tubes. And I thought I saw on here somewhere that the Sig X was the KT88s, but was intentionally voiced to be less tight. I'm going to try a clean boost for kicks this weekend (as everyone is suggesting) but I'm curious about the differences between the amps in general.

goodybear
06-29-2011, 02:13 PM
I have my 50CL settings as recommended by Support. Master volume maxed out and channel volume at around 9 o'clock, gain at 2.30. Sounds fantastic!. If you're playing metal stuff, I'd go with AB and Enhanced setting (though I actually prefer Normal setting while I'm soloing, I wish I could switch it on the fly). A reverb unit does help, you might want to consider placing it in the loop. I have an RC booster and OCD pedal in front of the amp, I have been tweaking it for months now and finally come to realize there is more headroom without these pedals, it just sounds more open. I use the OCD when I'm doing a bunch of string harmonies and the RC booster for short strumming stuff, other than that it is straight from the amp. Chinese preamp tubes would also help, make sure they are not microphonics, Fryette told me to place their recommended tube on V1 tho, I think it's a Sovtek.

support
06-29-2011, 02:52 PM
If you're playing metal stuff, I'd go with AB and Enhanced setting (though I actually prefer Normal setting while I'm soloing, I wish I could switch it on the fly).

You can switch to Enhanced mode on the fly. Set the switch to Auto Mode. Then you will have Normal mode on the Red channel and Enhanced mode on the Green channel - which is the channel with more headroom anyway.


I have been tweaking it for months now and finally come to realize there is more headroom without these pedals, it just sounds more open.

Boostassio will be out soon. That will solve the limited headroom while boosting with a pedal issue.


Fryette told me to place their recommended tube on V1 tho, I think it's a Sovtek.

Specifically, a Sovtek 12AX7WB. Also try the Tung-Sol 12AX7. A little more gain and sustain, although some may find it peaky on top and not quite as open sounding. Cool sounding tube tho...

goodybear
06-29-2011, 11:54 PM
You can switch to Enhanced mode on the fly. Set the switch to Auto Mode. Then you will have Normal mode on the Red channel and Enhanced mode on the Green channel - which is the channel with more headroom anyway

I'm currently using the red channel for high gain metal stuff and solos. I use the green channel for clean and some clean solo with boost just to get a little dirt out of it. should I swap my channel settings?, is the green channel better for high gain stuff?

GD91945
06-30-2011, 02:56 AM
should I swap my channel settings?, is the green channel better for high gain stuff?

Not necessarily better – you judge! – but different. Green always seems a little more characteristically Fryette to me; more open, maybe a little more middly, and with a more granular distorted sound. Red always seems darker and smoother to me.

HellfireSG
06-30-2011, 11:31 AM
Well looking at your sig you are definitely knowledgeable about Fryettes! So what would sum up the differences between the UL and CL (and you could throw in the Siggy for reference, too)? I was under the impression that the only difference between a UL and CL was the additional channel and the power tubes. And I thought I saw on here somewhere that the Sig X was the KT88s, but was intentionally voiced to be less tight. I'm going to try a clean boost for kicks this weekend (as everyone is suggesting) but I'm curious about the differences between the amps in general.

the CL feels more typical EL34, but with it's own thing going on...i don't really wanna say Marshall, because i've never played a Marshall that felt, or sounded as good as a 100CL....When i 1st got the CL i also used the red channel for my distorted sound and the green for the clean side. After reading here that others were using the green channel more, i also did the same, and that was the was i kept it....the 100CL layered with the KT88 Deliverance was AMAZING recorded....i felt it was the perfect blend. BUT!!!! i had to sell 1 of my heads to afford the UL. The UL is a different beast, it's low-low mid punch is....golden, amazing, beautiful....i just love it...i have been diving some more into the orange (2nd) channel more lately, and in that mid-gain setting it does a fantastic Marshall bark...but again nothing like any Marshall i've ever played...just that kind mid-top push....IDK, i've owned the UL for about 2 years now, and i still find tones on that head that blow me away....My SigX is getting sold off to my brother-in-law...it's a GREAT head, really is but i use the UL more, and the Sig has just been sitting.....the Sig is super versatile....there really wasn't anything i couldn't pull off with that head...but i :"HAD" to get a UL to try....i was haunting me...lol. Glad i did too!!! Hope that helps....if you want more info on any of the heads...hit me up!:)

Hollowway
07-02-2011, 01:19 AM
the CL feels more typical EL34, but with it's own thing going on...i don't really wanna say Marshall, because i've never played a Marshall that felt, or sounded as good as a 100CL....When i 1st got the CL i also used the red channel for my distorted sound and the green for the clean side. After reading here that others were using the green channel more, i also did the same, and that was the was i kept it....the 100CL layered with the KT88 Deliverance was AMAZING recorded....i felt it was the perfect blend. BUT!!!! i had to sell 1 of my heads to afford the UL. The UL is a different beast, it's low-low mid punch is....golden, amazing, beautiful....i just love it...i have been diving some more into the orange (2nd) channel more lately, and in that mid-gain setting it does a fantastic Marshall bark...but again nothing like any Marshall i've ever played...just that kind mid-top push....IDK, i've owned the UL for about 2 years now, and i still find tones on that head that blow me away....My SigX is getting sold off to my brother-in-law...it's a GREAT head, really is but i use the UL more, and the Sig has just been sitting.....the Sig is super versatile....there really wasn't anything i couldn't pull off with that head...but i :"HAD" to get a UL to try....i was haunting me...lol. Glad i did too!!! Hope that helps....if you want more info on any of the heads...hit me up!:)

Thanks, man! Yeah, I'd love a UL, but I'm not playing live, so I just can't rationalize the expense. I got a great deal on my 50CL, so I'll be keeping that. It sounds like the main tonal differences are from the power tubes. So would you say a 50CL could be dialed in to sound similar to a typical UL setting, or are they really that different? And do you think KT77s would move it closer to the UL sound? If so, I might swap those out when I have the bias checked.

Hollowway
07-07-2011, 01:50 AM
Another quick question for you guys:
What difference does having the master all the way up and channel volume adjusted vs the other way around? I played around with it tonight, and it would sound a little different, but I am embarrassed to admit I don't know what's really going on behind the scenes. Does diming the master drive the power tubes to distortion, where as keeping the master low (and channel high) give more preamp distortion (and cleaner power tubes)? Or what is actually happening there?

Also, I talked with tech support at Fryette HQ today, and I'm not going to consider a KT77 swap in this thing. Sounds like that will just give a raspier high end. Still want to try a 100CL and UL, though, because I'm not sure the 50CL can get chuggy and percussive enough for me. Everything else is covered, but I still want a little of that.

HellfireSG
07-07-2011, 11:33 AM
Does diming the master drive the power tubes to distortion, where as keeping the master low (and channel high) give more preamp distortion (and cleaner power tubes)? Or what is actually happening there?

that is exactly whats happening...you are adding the glorious EL34 power amp distortion!

stephen sawall
07-07-2011, 05:43 PM
:)Turning the master all the way up does not cause poweramp distortion. If I understand correct the poweramp is always running full. It is how much it is getting put into the front of the poweramp that causes overdrive. If there is not enough being feed to the poweramp you do not get overdrive regardless of how the master is set.

In most amps the flow is like this ....

channel volume - effects loop - master - poweramp

Hollowway
07-08-2011, 04:10 AM
Hmm, 2 opposing answers! Well, if it's not the power amp distortion I can't see why turning up the master (and lowering the channel) would make much of a difference.

I also know that on the UL people do NOT want power aml distortion, so does that mean on that amp the idea is to keep the master low?

And since the pre amp of all of the pittbulls is the same, if you lower the master on the CLs is it going to sound closer to a UL (ie preamp distortion only) as opposed to cranking the master?

ryanc
07-08-2011, 03:17 PM
It was always my understanding that EL34 amps (like the CL's) sounded better with the Master cranked to drive the EL34s harder. And that KT88's didn't sound as good when pushing them too hard so on the UL, turn the Channel volume up higher and keep Master lower.

I remember liking my 50cl better with the Master cranked up around 3:00 and then setting overall volume with the Channel volumes. I thought it not only had a bit more fullness and growl in the tone, but it also had a touch more sag in the feel. The glorious pushed EL34 tone is part of it, but I think alot of people also like the FEEL of an EL34 amp when the tubes are really hot and breaking up.

stephen sawall
07-08-2011, 04:21 PM
Hmm, 2 opposing answers! Well, if it's not the power amp distortion I can't see why turning up the master (and lowering the channel) would make much of a difference.
:)The answers are not really opposing ..... I was just stating what is actually needed to get poweramp distortion. It requires more than turning up the master .... it requires enough signal to be put into the poweramp for it to overdrive. Just turning up the master will not cause the poweramp to overdrive.

As for the 2nd part of your statement ..... I think it is very obvious there is a difference. This is two different points in the signal chain and the adjustment of both will effect the results. Your ears will show you this ....

Most will tell you turn the master to 2 o'clock to all the way up and adjust the dB's in the room with the channel volumes.

HellfireSG
07-08-2011, 08:47 PM
:)
Most will tell you turn the master to 2 o'clock to all the way up and adjust the dB's in the room with the channel volumes.

yes...^ this!!

HellfireSG
07-08-2011, 08:49 PM
It was always my understanding that EL34 amps (like the CL's) sounded better with the Master cranked to drive the EL34s harder. And that KT88's didn't sound as good when pushing them too hard so on the UL, turn the Channel volume up higher and keep Master lower.


i have yet to get the UL up to a volume where it didn't sound fantastic.....i've had channel and master up at about 2 o'clock(yes at the same time)....and the thing just sings:twisted:

HopkinWFG
07-09-2011, 01:58 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWsJinDpLAg

My 50CL with EH tubes EL34..
Channel : Green
Bass: 1400
Mids: 1500
Treble: 1300
Gain: 1300
Master: 1400
Channel volume: 0830

however i find it super dry thou is super clean on the tonality but it is like "brittle"
i find it harder to tap, harder on legato as you can hear i am stuggling and lastly it makes my arm tired easily when picking every notes (thou i know my playing sucked)... maybe i had biased it towards the "colder" region..

Any help or suggestion for me to get this amp operating at warmer region?
am using an ibanez RG7 mahogany bodied guitar with BKP nailbomb... maybe its a bad combination or shall i change to a mucher aggressive PU to boost the treble to another level?

support
07-09-2011, 01:17 PM
Channel volume at 0830?

If I read this correctly, you are at bedroom volume. The power amp won't start singing until you push it. What Stephen was trying to say, I think, is that knob position alone does not determine necessarily the behavior of the various stages. In other words, you can turn the Master to full up, but if the preamp volume is set really low as seems to be the case here, you're not going to push the power amp anywhere near the point at which it starts adding mojo to the sound.

Until you are at band volume, different power tubes and biasing are going to have very little impact on the character of the power amp. Right now you are having to work to play the amp set this way. That's pretty normal. Once you slam the amp it should play itself.

HopkinWFG
07-09-2011, 02:20 PM
Yes ! its a bedroom settings..

i find tweaking the gain till 1500 would get much prefered tonality ... its less brit and gotta slight forgiveness in playing... however i havent tried channel volume at pass 0830.... maybe should give it a try thou...

how about setting it to class A position?

support
07-09-2011, 02:52 PM
...however i havent tried channel volume at pass 0830.... maybe should give it a try thou...

Definitely.


... how about setting it to class A position?

Try it, but Class A is a power amp function, meaning that still the power amp won't jump until you kick it :)

Hollowway
07-09-2011, 04:50 PM
Ah, this is starting to all come together for me! Muchas gracias for everyone's input. So I'm going to take the amp out of my little 10x10 practice room and crank it. So I have 2 new questions:

1) Since 8:30 on the channel amp is not really going to drive the power amp, at this (bedroom) volume would the CL and UL sound essentially the same (since they have the same preamps)?
2) I was at one time thinking of getting a GP3 to have the option of power amp. Instead, if I buy a 2/90/2 could I run the preamp out of the 50CL and get a UL sound?

Or am I wrong on both counts, and the preamp channels are not identical in the CLs and UL.

HopkinWFG
07-09-2011, 11:23 PM
Ah, this is starting to all come together for me! Muchas gracias for everyone's input. So I'm going to take the amp out of my little 10x10 practice room and crank it. So I have 2 new questions:

1) Since 8:30 on the channel amp is not really going to drive the power amp, at this (bedroom) volume would the CL and UL sound essentially the same (since they have the same preamps)?
2) I was at one time thinking of getting a GP3 to have the option of power amp. Instead, if I buy a 2/90/2 could I run the preamp out of the 50CL and get a UL sound?

Or am I wrong on both counts, and the preamp channels are not identical in the CLs and UL.



i would eventually getta UL too ...

Hollowway
07-10-2011, 02:10 AM
i would eventually getta UL too ...

Haha, yeah, I probably will. Not much chance of trying one where I am, but I hope to get down in LA in the next 6 months or so and maybe I can try one out. After I posted that last question I realized that the power amp is still amplifying, so my first question doesn't make much sense. But I'm still wondering if a 2/90/2 would give me the tonal options of the UL (since I already own the 50CL). Alternatively I could get a GP3, but there's a bit difficult to come by. Either way I don't want to buy it unless I have the chance to try it.